Gloria,
That alternator will provide slightly over 2000 watts total, at full rated capacity. I have no idea how much of that wattage will be required to operate your vehicle, (that will depend on whether or not you're using the air conditioner, heater/defroster fan, windshield wipers, electric rear window defroster or mirror defrosters, electronics, etc., but you can certainly operate at a deficit rate for a while, so long as you eventually allow it time to recover, and recharge the batteries. If you plan to discharge the batteries significantly, (IOW, operate at above capacity for a significant amount of time), then you might want to use deep-discharge batteries, so that you're not as likely to warp the plates in them.
Add up the wattage of everything that you intend to operate at the same time, (IOW, maximum demand), and compare that figure with the maximum output of the alternator, (about 2000 watts). If the sum amounts to only roughly half the max capacity, you have it made under just about any conditions. If the sum amounts to roughly three-quarters of the capacity, (IOW, roughly 1500 watts), then you are probably still fine, unless you need to operate most or all of the car's standard accessories at the same time, in which case you might need to keep an eye on your battery charge level, now and then. Even if your total demand for the add-on equipment should crowd 2000 watts, (or exceed it), that's still doable, so long as you give the system at least a few minutes to recover, between uses.
If you are using an inverter, though, you have to allow extra wattage for the inefficiency of your converter, for any equipment that you power through that inverter. These days, most inverters are roughly 85 to 95 % efficient, so as a ball park figure, add roughly 10 % of the wattage rating of whatever is plugged into the inverter, to the total wattage for anything powered through an inverter.
Tex
A Vehicle for Travelling
Moderators: Rosie, JFR, Gabes-Apg, grannyh, Gloria, Mars, starfire, Polly, Joefnh, mbeezie
Thank you, Tex, for your usual great explanation of the situation.
I think I can determine the wattage use for the cooler, freezer and warmer pot, but I'm not sure how I could determine the wattage that the car components use. It seems that the biggest draw would be in the summer when we use the air conditioner, though heating elements can require a big draw, too.
The van didn't come with a battery gauge, so we'll have to watch for a low battery dummy light.
Perhaps the RV dealer technician can give us an idea of the wattage. He did tell the car salesman that we might not need to add another battery/inverter.
DH drove the van to work today for the first time, and he said all the guys wanted to look at it. I guess the GPS system is impressive to them. I'm glad he's happy with it. It's his car, but was purchased for my MC.
Gloria
I think I can determine the wattage use for the cooler, freezer and warmer pot, but I'm not sure how I could determine the wattage that the car components use. It seems that the biggest draw would be in the summer when we use the air conditioner, though heating elements can require a big draw, too.
The van didn't come with a battery gauge, so we'll have to watch for a low battery dummy light.
Perhaps the RV dealer technician can give us an idea of the wattage. He did tell the car salesman that we might not need to add another battery/inverter.
DH drove the van to work today for the first time, and he said all the guys wanted to look at it. I guess the GPS system is impressive to them. I'm glad he's happy with it. It's his car, but was purchased for my MC.
Gloria
You never know what you can do until you have to do it.
If it has a cigarette lighter socket, (or accessory outlet plug), you can buy a voltmeter that will plug right in, to show you the status of your battery/alternator. A voltmeter won't show current draw, but it's very useful for showing the state of the system, since it shows overall system voltage. A 12 volt battery, fully charged, should show 12.6 volts, (after it has cooled down - it will show higher voltage for a while immediately after the charging system has been shut down). Anything lower means that the battery is not at full charge, of course. Normal system voltage when the alternator is running, should be around 13.6 volts, or higher, (but generally less than 15). Anything less than about 12.8 volts indicates very low or non-existent alternator output, (or it could mean that you are using more power than the alternator is capable of producing). A voltmeter can be attached anywhere in the electrical system, so it could be attached to the auxiliary battery, for example, or to any major electrical wire, if you would rather use a mounted meter, instead of a plug-in monitor.
This is an example of what I'm talking about, (to plug into a 12 volt DC socket):
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3721-Batter ... auto_img_b
If you're both happy with it, it doesn't get any better than that.
Tex
This is an example of what I'm talking about, (to plug into a 12 volt DC socket):
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3721-Batter ... auto_img_b
If you're both happy with it, it doesn't get any better than that.
Tex
It is suspected that some of the hardest material known to science can be found in the skulls of GI specialists who insist that diet has nothing to do with the treatment of microscopic colitis.
Gloria
Congrats on your new minivan.
We had rented one when we went to pick up the new puppy so we could take the older dog, too. Shortly thereafter, we purchased one. We just love it.
The fact that it has ECO drive, which if my understanding is correct, means it can run on four cylinders instead of all six, won my vote. I didn't want a big gas guzzler.
We had rented one when we went to pick up the new puppy so we could take the older dog, too. Shortly thereafter, we purchased one. We just love it.
The fact that it has ECO drive, which if my understanding is correct, means it can run on four cylinders instead of all six, won my vote. I didn't want a big gas guzzler.
DISCLAIMER: I am not a doctor and don't play one on TV.
LDN July 18, 2014
Joan
LDN July 18, 2014
Joan
Joan,
We have a thermoelectric cooler made by Igloo that we bought years ago. We're looking at portable refrigerator/freezers, but haven't purchased one yet. I will be using it strictly as a freezer because most of my foods are pre-cooked and frozen until I'm ready to eat them.
Here are a few we've investigated:
Engel
Dometic
Norcold
Gloria
We have a thermoelectric cooler made by Igloo that we bought years ago. We're looking at portable refrigerator/freezers, but haven't purchased one yet. I will be using it strictly as a freezer because most of my foods are pre-cooked and frozen until I'm ready to eat them.
Here are a few we've investigated:
Engel
Dometic
Norcold
Gloria
You never know what you can do until you have to do it.
That's exactly right, Lyn. We need a vacation after being exhausted from preparing to go.Lyn wrote:Love the way this camping bit is 'getting away from it all'. I seem to do more 'taking it all with me'.
It's all for a change of scenery....are we crazy or what?Gloria
You never know what you can do until you have to do it.
Lyn,
I hear you.
At least this one is inexpensive, and it could save a lot of anxiety if you're out in the outback, and wondering if the alternator is still working properly.
Tex
I hear you.
At least this one is inexpensive, and it could save a lot of anxiety if you're out in the outback, and wondering if the alternator is still working properly.Tex
It is suspected that some of the hardest material known to science can be found in the skulls of GI specialists who insist that diet has nothing to do with the treatment of microscopic colitis.
Wow , it is such a kick to read here about your planing for trips with all your high tech gear, actually I love it but my work for many years is highly skilled but does not include high tech stuff and a love reading about all the new equipment .
Thanks for all the ideas. I may have to take a step up from ice coolers a dry ice coolers.
And no matter how you do it have fun. Just don't get so involved in the technology that you forget to enjoy yourself or stress out on if it will work.
In the end it is all about you and your health and having a great time . Don’t lose that concept!
Love
Matthew
Thanks for all the ideas. I may have to take a step up from ice coolers a dry ice coolers.
And no matter how you do it have fun. Just don't get so involved in the technology that you forget to enjoy yourself or stress out on if it will work.
In the end it is all about you and your health and having a great time . Don’t lose that concept!
Love
Matthew
Actually Matthew, the new technology is pretty expensive. The refrigerator/freezers I'm looking at cost several hundred dollars, some as much as $900. Dry ice is a lot cheaper.
When I was in Utah, a grocery store actually had a dry ice machine inside the store. I peered inside, but there was a layer of paper or something covering it. A glove was on the top of the machine. I have never seen anything like that here in the Midwest. We're too urbanized, I guess.
Gloria
When I was in Utah, a grocery store actually had a dry ice machine inside the store. I peered inside, but there was a layer of paper or something covering it. A glove was on the top of the machine. I have never seen anything like that here in the Midwest. We're too urbanized, I guess.
Gloria
You never know what you can do until you have to do it.
Thanks, Gloria. I'll check those out tomorrow. I know there is a plug in the rear of the minivan but don't know if we will need an additional battery, too.
Whoa, I just saw the price!!!!!
I tried to get dry ice once for a Halloween party and it was so difficult that I just forgot about it.
Whoa, I just saw the price!!!!!
I tried to get dry ice once for a Halloween party and it was so difficult that I just forgot about it.
DISCLAIMER: I am not a doctor and don't play one on TV.
LDN July 18, 2014
Joan
LDN July 18, 2014
Joan
An update on our travel vehicle:
We purchased an 85 qt. AC/DC refrigerator/freezer made by Whynter from Home Depot for $605. I believe it is also sold as an Engel brand. We'll be using it as a freezer to hold my precooked lamb, turkey and pork roasts, tortillas, waffles, pancakes, and muffins. It weighs 72 lbs. empty, and we won't be able to carry it into the hotel each night, so we'll need to keep it in the Toyota, plugged into an auxiliary portable battery, which will be connected to the main car battery. It will recharge while we drive. I guess if we stay put for more than a couple of days, we'll have to bring the freezer into the motel/hotel. We will also use our 12v thermoelectric cooler for my almond milk, mayonnaise, puddings and sliced turkey for sandwiches.
We have the following estimate from a local Camping World shop:
1 year CampingWorld membership (to receive discounts on components below)
Battery box: $13.99
Battery XRF-31D: 260.99
Battery Core Fee: $15.00
PROwatt SW inverter - 2000W #806-1220 (for using a microwave, or crock pot): $479.99
12 feet 2/0 battery cable: $34.78
4 2/0 Battery lugs: $5.80
Fuse kit 300 Amp: $67.99
Shop supplies: $95.20
Labor - fabricate, install, and wire secondary battery and inverter system in rear of van: $952.00
They forgot to include an isolator in the proposal, so that will be an added cost. Total without the isolator comes to $2013.85. The inverter, battery and labor are the highest costs. I've found the same battery and inverter for less money on the Internet and am debating whether I should order them and save about $145. The labor includes building a small "table" to put over the battery/inverter sitting in the well behind one 3rd row seat. That will allow us to put the heavy freezer on top of it so that it's not in a free-standing place in the vehicle in case of an accident or sudden stop. The other two 3rd row seats will lay flat, allowing us to put luggage and any other travel items there.
We'll be able to remove the entire setup, leaving only the battery cables in the well when we're not travelling. They will run the battery cables under the car, protected by a covering and pull them through a hole they'll drill in the well. They are allowing 8 hours for labor, though it might be less time. I'm trying to convince DH to get another estimate from a dealer in town. I've heard that the Optima battery is the best, and it costs about the same.
This is an expensive setup, but it is cheaper than buying a motor home, and it will be portable, if we ever have to buy another vehicle. We'll also save on the gasoline costs compared to towing or a motor home. I would have liked a motor home or trailer, but DH didn't want to tow again, and we would have had to pay to store them. This way, we can use the vehicle all year around and keep it in our garage.
Once we get it set up, we'll take it on a short trip of about 6 days to see how well it works. I'll be sure to post a report.
Gloria
We purchased an 85 qt. AC/DC refrigerator/freezer made by Whynter from Home Depot for $605. I believe it is also sold as an Engel brand. We'll be using it as a freezer to hold my precooked lamb, turkey and pork roasts, tortillas, waffles, pancakes, and muffins. It weighs 72 lbs. empty, and we won't be able to carry it into the hotel each night, so we'll need to keep it in the Toyota, plugged into an auxiliary portable battery, which will be connected to the main car battery. It will recharge while we drive. I guess if we stay put for more than a couple of days, we'll have to bring the freezer into the motel/hotel. We will also use our 12v thermoelectric cooler for my almond milk, mayonnaise, puddings and sliced turkey for sandwiches.
We have the following estimate from a local Camping World shop:
1 year CampingWorld membership (to receive discounts on components below)
Battery box: $13.99
Battery XRF-31D: 260.99
Battery Core Fee: $15.00
PROwatt SW inverter - 2000W #806-1220 (for using a microwave, or crock pot): $479.99
12 feet 2/0 battery cable: $34.78
4 2/0 Battery lugs: $5.80
Fuse kit 300 Amp: $67.99
Shop supplies: $95.20
Labor - fabricate, install, and wire secondary battery and inverter system in rear of van: $952.00
They forgot to include an isolator in the proposal, so that will be an added cost. Total without the isolator comes to $2013.85. The inverter, battery and labor are the highest costs. I've found the same battery and inverter for less money on the Internet and am debating whether I should order them and save about $145. The labor includes building a small "table" to put over the battery/inverter sitting in the well behind one 3rd row seat. That will allow us to put the heavy freezer on top of it so that it's not in a free-standing place in the vehicle in case of an accident or sudden stop. The other two 3rd row seats will lay flat, allowing us to put luggage and any other travel items there.
We'll be able to remove the entire setup, leaving only the battery cables in the well when we're not travelling. They will run the battery cables under the car, protected by a covering and pull them through a hole they'll drill in the well. They are allowing 8 hours for labor, though it might be less time. I'm trying to convince DH to get another estimate from a dealer in town. I've heard that the Optima battery is the best, and it costs about the same.
This is an expensive setup, but it is cheaper than buying a motor home, and it will be portable, if we ever have to buy another vehicle. We'll also save on the gasoline costs compared to towing or a motor home. I would have liked a motor home or trailer, but DH didn't want to tow again, and we would have had to pay to store them. This way, we can use the vehicle all year around and keep it in our garage.
Once we get it set up, we'll take it on a short trip of about 6 days to see how well it works. I'll be sure to post a report.
Gloria
You never know what you can do until you have to do it.